The door frame is made from bent-laminated teak with three panes of glass, while the cabinet itself is made from teak and Alaskan yellow cedar veneers over a Baltic-Birch plywood core.

I built the cabinet from a plank of teak that my friend Andrew was kind enough to let go of, and the last few bits of yellow cedar my friend Greg had after finishing a cabinet of his own. I couldn't have made this piece without the help of fellow wood-nerds...

All parts, including the glass stops and mullions, are carefully shaped and finished before final assembly.

The shelves are held up by adjustable, carved consoles.

This cabinet was my final project while attending College of the Redwoods’ Fine Woodworking program. It was designed as an exercise in veneering and glasswork. (Plus, if you are going to build a showcase cabinet, C/R is the place to do it.) The door consists of a bent-laminated teak frame with three panes of glass, while the cabinet is teak and yellow cedar veneer over a Baltic-ply core. Perfect for displaying Pez dispensers, tiny helper robots, or anything else that is better kept behind glass.

Dimensions: 29″ T x 18″W x 6″ D
Materials: Teak, Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Glass
Finish: Teak Oil (Outside), Shellac (Inside), Wax

This piece is currently for sale. Please contact for details.

Planing a bevel into the underside of each shelf, hopefully, this will make each shelf appear lighter than it actually is.

Drilling the pin-holes into the console-blocks. Each console (pictured above as small cubes) will be held in place with a small brass pin.

Carving the consoles to final shape.

Shelf with consoles in place.

Gluing the back of the cabinet in. This, like every other glue-up I have ever been a part of, turned out to be a little more exciting than I would have liked.

Finishing the door. I ended up using Teak Oil (”Why not?”.) I think it is basically thinned-down linseed oil, meaning the drying time is measured on a geologic scale. Frankly, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Door frame, finished, with stops, mullions, and glass. Some assembly required.

Laying the glass into the rabbets in the door frame. The glass panes sit on three flats which have been milled into the top and bottom of the frame.

The stops holding the glass in have to be carefully shaped to fit around each mullion, while maintaining some pressure on the glass itself. The idea is to have everything tight enough that the glass won’t rattle in the frame, but not so tight that either the frame distorts or the glass cracks.

Inserting the pins to hold the stops in place. Lesson learned: glass scratches very, very easily.

Completed door, with everything in its right place.