Behold: The bench, glued up, and at five feet long, perfect for three people to sit comfortably.
Bench with rough-shaped seat slats.

Mocking up how the bench will look as a two-seater after realizing that, as much as I may wish otherwise, it simply was not going to hold three people. I actually sat down on it and heard a stretcher crack at the joint. First thing’s first: lay down on the shop floor and take a nap. Then it’s back to work.

Sawing apart the stretchers.
‘
Twelve hours later, glue-up (redux).

Setting up to cut the seat planks down to size.

Cutting one of the seat planks. This was the hardest part.

And now: the new and improved two-person bench, complete with lower stretchers.

7:15 PM, Sunday night. Just enough daylight left to take a few pictures before the deadline tomorrow morning.

Hey check it out – the Garden Bench, made from reclaimed sinker cypress, won Fine Woodworking’s “Waste Knot, Want Knot” Challenge:

Clark Kellogg Wins Gallery Challenge.

The parameters of the challenge were to submit a piece made from reclaimed or recycled wood. The bench, being made from reclaimed wood, seemed to qualify.

Thanks to the editors at Fine Woodworking, and to those that participated in the challenge. I can’t wait to drink out of my fancy new mug…

Meanwhile…

Actually, that’s not true. Laminating the seat supports was actually the first step in constructing the bench. Because there are six supports (nine, actually: four under the seat, two lower supports, two test pieces, and a spare), and each one takes a day to clamp, cure, and glue. It made sense to begin with them.

Seat supports (with spares), glued up and ready to be trimmed and mortised.

The two side sections are glued up. I left the legs long so that I could trim them flush (and continue the sweep of the stretcher-curve) once everything was in place.

Once the tops of the legs are trimmed flush, I can mark the long stretchers with the approximate angle needed to bring them flush with the legs. I ended up ripping them as close as I could on the tablesaw, then planing them flush while everything was dry-clamped together.

Scribing the cut-line to fit the middle seat supports. I clamped the support to a “dummy” piece (the poplar right behind the stretcher), which was in turn clamped in between the two long stretchers.

Using a long piece of floating-tenon stock to mark out exactly where the tenon needs to go on the outside of the seat support.

Closeup of the board I used to make the seat planks with. Straight, tight grain, no cracks (a minor miracle), plenty wide, and just thick enough to resaw into two planks. Yes!

Resawn, bookmatched planks. Luckily, this board didn’t crack on me. (Unlike one of the other boards I picked up on the same trip. It was small enough that I could fit it inside the car, as opposed to the roof rack. Anyway, on the way home from Louisiana, I kept hearing a faint clicking noise. I thought it was the engine, or maybe I had picked up a branch or something. I pulled over and cut the engine. I could still hear the clicking. I put my ear to the board. There it was. The board was cracking up on me. This was no longer a nice little drive through lovely East Texas. This was a race against time. Please Jetta don’t die on me.)

Seat planks, ripped down their length at a slight angle. When the two halves are clamped back together, they will form a very slight “V.” (Thus bringing them closer to the final curve of the seat.)

Planing one edge of one of the “staves.” Although the angle was cut on the tablesaw, planing off the sawmarks will ensure (hopefully) an invisible glueline.

Two halves of a plank, ready to be joined.

Gluing up one of the planks. Because the two pieces come together at an angle, the boards naturally want to spring open as they are clamped together. Therefore, extra clamps are needed to apply downward force on the joint.

The two seat planks, glued and ready for shaping.

Shaping the bottom of the seat into a smooth curve.

Checking the fit of the seat planks against the curve of the seat supports. (Or at least against the mockups of the seat supports.)

Allison and I were discussing benches over dinner one night. “What about a curved bench,” I asked. “Meh.” “What, then?” “I don’t know. It should be nice. And straight.”

I had picture in my brain of two swoops, like eyebrows, or a really great mustache. Other than that, I really had no idea what the bench should look like. I knew I wanted to make it out of cypress (cypress being both local and rot-resistant), but other than that, I wasn’t so sure…

After doing some extensive product testing (involving my favorite form of research – sitting down for a while), I found what I thought would work for seat height and width. I made a full-scale drawing (I usually just work from mockups) to see how the swoops of the two seat planks would relate to the curved supports, and how they in turn related to the rest of the bench.

Full scale mockup. I used thin plywood clamped to the supports to simulate what would eventually be the coopered seat panels.

Hey check it out – Kellogg Furniture got a very nice write-up from my new friend Mitch over at his excellent woodworking blog, Furnitude:

furnitude.blogspot.com

Thanks!

Hey check it out – the Music Box I built got a posting on BoingBoing Gadgets!

It also got mysteriously linked to janden.net:

A few comments, as translated by Babelfish:
-”The hope joins a hand operated power supply system”
-”Who took away the sofa lid….?”
And my favorite –
-”I like this kind feeling that / I am the steam friend gram control”

(Actually, they came in about three weeks ago, but I’ve been so busy with the pulpit project this is the first chance I’ve had to sit down and update anything.) You can check out Click2Houston’sBest for more information.

Anyway, thank you so much to everyone who voted. Y’all are the reason I won – I myself only get one vote.

Thanks again.
-Clark

After milling the parts down to final dimensions and cutting to exact length (I resaw everything as close as I can on the bandsaw, then send it through the planer once or twice to clean it up), the next step is to cut the mortises for the floating tenons.

Cutting the mortises in the Pulpit posts…

Lengths of floating-tenon stock. I use a 1/4-round bit on each side of the square stock to half-rounded tenons (rather than chopping out and squaring up the mortises themselves.) The grooves down the middle allow glue to flow up through the joint while it’s being clamped.

Cutting the floating tenons to length…

Dry-fitting the two “wings” of the Pulpit.

Pulpit, dry-fit, minus the panels, dividers, shelves, box, hardware, and everything else that still needs to be done.

Once the lumber has been selected, rough milling of the parts can begin. I usually bandsaw stock out with an extra 1/4″ in both dimensions. The posts which will eventually support the pulpit are the four pieces in the foreground.

After rough milling, the posts are left for a week to settle. Next, they are milled to exact outer dimensions.

This is how I cut the five sides of each post:

…
After the faces have been cut into each post, I use a smoothing plane set to a very light cut to clean up the saw marks.

Four posts (with two test posts), ready for joinery.